The woman at the Jil Sander, Fall / Winter 2013-14 show, is a woman casually moving in a harmonious way in her garments from precise cuts, disciplined, built as an architecture, which must fall perfectly over the lines of the body .
As if to say that the sinuous shapes of a woman's body should be hidden behind many curved lines. Soft lines, refined from impetuous volumes. Geometries that resemble the "free and sensual" curves loved by the Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer, master of the "round lines."
Therefore, the collection is all geometry: the coats of large volumes, lowered shoulders, the pea coat shaped, asymmetrical skirts moved by the ruffles that create large refined pleats. It 's a casual modernity, designed for a woman who does not give up her femininity in her precise garments.
The materials are stiff and heavy, even organic. There is regenerated leather, Argentine beaver, double face felt. All this rigor is only interrupted by bursts, cuts and golden brushstrokes that emerge in the interior of skirts and pullovers in merino wool.
(Images from Lyst.com)